What Are The Most Sustainable Fabrics?
Not all of us spend a significant amount of time thinking about the material that comprises the clothes we wear, and that's perfectly reasonable.
Perhaps you may favor one material over another because certain fabrics cause skin irritation or you don't like how others feel. It's also possible that you haven't considered the fabric composition of your wardrobe at all.
While you may not have spent considerable time thinking about the materials in your clothes, an important question to consider is the impact that these fabrics have on your health and the environment. Essentially what fabrics are sustainable and healthy for your skin?
Introduction
Many brands and materials today market themselves as sustainable, but how do you separate what's truly green verses what is greenwashing?
It boils down to evaluating each brand or textile fiber and understanding where it's sourced from, how it's grown (or what it's derived from), and then looking at the production process, complete lifecycle of the material, and whether the fiber is both healthy for your skin and the environment.
Sadly, finding chemicals in clothing has become all too common. Popular activewear brands like Lululemon, Athleta, Alo Yoga, and dozens more use synthetic materials like polyester or nylon, which have been found to contain dangerous levels of BPA in addition to other harmful toxins like PFAS, flame retardants, lead, phthalates, and azo dyes, and the process of manufacturing these materials is also bad for the environment.
Synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon account for approximately two thirds of all textile fibers, and about half are derived from oil-based polyester. One wash of a polyester garment can release up to 4,000 microfibers into your water supply, and over 70 million barrels of oil are used to produce polyester each year.
On the sustainability and environmental side, it is estimated that textile and fiber production - aka clothing production - accounts for between 3% to 7% of total global human-caused carbon emissions. Furthermore, approximately 10-20% of industrial pollution comes from the textile manufacturing process, and over 8,000 chemicals are used to turn raw materials into the clothing we wear everyday.
Setting Context
When evaluating sustainable fabrics, textiles, and sustainable fabric suppliers, one should consider the resources and pollution related to the production of each material and the lifecycle of the fiber from inception to the end of its useful life.
But just because something is sustainable, doesn't mean it's free from harmful toxins and chemicals. It's likewise important to evaluate the manufacturing process, especially with regard to recycled materials derived originally from petrochemicals, to ensure that you're not exposing yourself to harmful toxins.
Let's start our analysis with a review of the least sustainable and healthy fabrics so we can develop an understanding of how these materials vary in their sustainability and levels of harm to our bodies.
The Least Sustainable Fabrics
Synthetic Fabrics
- Nylon (also known as polyamide)
- Rayon (also known as Viscose and is semi-synthetic)
Polyester: Is Polyester Toxic?
The short answer is most certainly. Is polyester sustainable? Not by a long shot.
Polyester is a synthetic material containing plastic that is usually derived from petroleum. It is one of the most common materials found in clothing production today, used in nearly 70% of all clothing.
One of the main reasons polyester and many synthetic fabrics are so commonly used is because they're cheap to produce and consume. Despite its low cost, polyester contains none of the biodegradable or compostable elements that more sustainable fabrics like TENCEL™ or Organic Cotton do.
Furthermore, many of the most popular activewear brands have recently come under fire for selling clothing with dangerous levels of harmful chemicals like BPA, PFAS, and other toxins. Exposure to these harmful toxins in activewear has been associated with impaired reproduction, type 2 diabetes, and cancer.
Polyester is not known to be especially breathable and it traps heat and bacteria, which can lead to skin irritation and contribute to bad odors. When you consider polyester's suboptimal functionality as an activewear material along with the negative environmental and health effects associated with its production, it starts to become confusing why anyone would ever want to wear activewear made from polyester.
For more on polyester, check out our blog here.
Nylon (also known as polyamide): Is Nylon Toxic?
Most sources would say nylon is not necessarily toxic but it can be under certain circumstances. Is nylon sustainable? The general consensus is no, but let's explain more.
Nylon is a synthetic polymer, or plastic, that's derived from petrochemicals through a chemical and resource-intensive process.
If you check the materials that your current activewear items are made from, odds are very high that the two primary materials you will notice are nylon and polyester, and just like polyester, manufacturing the material consumes a large amount of energy and is harmful for the environment. Nylon can also release large amounts of microplastics during use and through washing.
Nylon contains properties like stretchiness and durability, and it's fast drying. However, chemical residues on nylon can cause skin irritation and it's not nearly as breathable as natural fibers like TENCEL™ Lyocell.
Given the resources required to produce nylon, the toxins that can be found in the finished product, and the fact that nylon doesn't contain nearly as many positive qualities ideal for activewear, we believe strongly there are much better options.
Acrylic: Is Acrylic Toxic?
Acrylic is derived from petroleum, so yes. Is acrylic sustainable? Negative.
Acrylic is a synthetic fabric made with plastic threads. It's made in a similar way to other synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon, which means it's also derived from petrochemicals and requires a number of chemicals to manufacture.
Acrylic is not used often in activewear as it's found more in hats, gloves, sweaters, and rugs. Acrylic is not biodegradable and one of the key ingredients in acrylic, acrylonitrile, can enter a factory worker's body by inhalation or skin contact.
Acrylic is both harmful for the environment and our health, so we recommend staying away.
Rayon (also known as Viscose and is semi-synthetic): Is Rayon The Same As Viscose?
Viscose is technically a subtype of rayon but viscose and rayon are often used interchangeably. For the sake of this piece, let's consider rayon and viscose the same material, which begs the questions: is viscose sustainable? Is rayon sustainable? Are they toxic?
It's complicated but there are considerable drawbacks to be aware of. Let us explain.
Rayon is derived from cellulose, which is an organic molecule and a critical structural component of plants, and then dissolving it into threads through a chemical-intensive process.
Because it is derived from organic molecules, rayon is sometimes considered a more sustainable option compared to polyester or cotton, but the truth is that the way it is manufactured causes significant environmental harm and can also be dangerous to factory workers.
While rayon can biodegrade in the ground, it does not do so in current landfills. Furthermore, rayon is not manufactured through a closed-loop process, and it consumes considerable resources such as high energy and water to produce.
Rayon may not be on the same level as polyester but there are better options of the market.
Unsustainable Fabrics
Conventional Cotton: Is Cotton Sustainable?
While conventional cotton is derived from a natural plant, there are many drawbacks to be aware of.
Conventional cotton is a natural fiber that is derived from the seed coat of the cotton plant.
You're probably familiar with cotton since it's one of the most common fabrics used in clothing worldwide. In fact, it's the second most produced fiber in the world after only polyester.
What you may not be as familiar with is the problems associated with its production, both in regard to the environment and the farmers who grow it.
Conventional cotton farming is responsible for over 16% of global insecticide sales and over 5% of worldwide pesticide consumption, which means that it is not a great crop for our water supply or soil.
According to a study by the Transformers Foundation, it takes nearly 2,000 liters of irrigation water and over 6,000 liters of rainwater to produce enough cotton to make one t-shirt and a pair of jeans. Extra water is then polluted with chemicals and dyes since cotton is not produced through a closed-loop process.
As we've discussed, it's important to take into account both the sustainability and health impacts of specific fiber production. While cotton may be derived from a natural plant, the process of manufacturing it causes significant environmental harm and the toxins associated with production are harmful to both the planet and our health.
Evaluating Sustainable Fabrics
You'll notice that most sustainable fabrics are derived from natural materials while others are recycled. As we noted earlier, when evaluating sustainable fabrics, one should take the following criteria into consideration:
- Production Process: the resources and pollution associated with the production of the material.
- Lifecycle: consider the entire lifecycle of the fiber from inception to the end of its useful life. Think about this as an analysis of the material from "birth" to "death" and its impact along each step of its useful life and then how that fabric is disposed of.
- Healthy For The Earth vs Healthy For Your Skin & Body: consider whether the material is, on one hand, sustainable but also contains some of the harmful toxins like BPA, PFAS, Formaldehyde, Flame Retardants, Lead, and Phthalates. While it's great to recycle and upcycle already existing materials, if you're risking being exposed to harmful toxins by doing so, it would be wise to first understand the consequences.
The Most Sustainable Fabrics
Plant Based Fibers
TENCEL Lyocell: Is Tencel Sustainable?
TENCEL™ Lyocell is a sustainable and renewable fabric derived from natural raw wood material and it is produced from a resource-saving, closed loop production process. This means that virtually no waste enters the environment as water and non-toxic solvent is reused at a rate of more than 99% during the production of TENCEL™.
The wood pulp used to make TENCEL™ is sourced from Europe and comes from sustainably managed trees, mostly eucalyptus trees. The wood used to make TENCEL™ is certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC).
TENCEL™ contains many of the most sought after properties valued in activewear. This includes properties such as breathable, stretchy, biodegradable, and compostable, and naturally moisture wicking and resistant to odor-causing bacteria. In summary, it's the perfect material to make activewear from, even if your top priority isn't sustainability.
Because it is a natural fiber, TENCEL™ also doesn't contain many of the harmful toxins that are present in the most common materials our activewear is made from today. While synthetic materials like polyester, which are derived from petrochemicals, contain harmful toxins like BPA, PFAS, and others, TENCEL™ contains none of these so you don't have to sacrifice comfort or your health for sustainability.
Organic Cotton: Is Organic Cotton Sustainable?
Certified organic cotton is cotton that has been grown without chemicals, fertilizers, or pesticides and using practices that promote biodiversity, soil health, and natural biological cycles.
Organic cotton is a much healthier and more sustainable option compared to regular cotton because it's grown without many of the harmful pesticides used to cultivate regular cotton, and it's produced without many of the dangerous chemicals.
While organic cotton accounts for only 1% of the world's global cotton production, the fact that it requires significantly less water, doesn't contain many of the harmful toxins used to produce conventional cotton, is better for recycling, and isn't derived from petrochemicals like synthetic materials means that it is one of the best options when it comes to sustainable and healthy textile fibers.
Organic Hemp: Is Organic Hemp Sustainable?
Organic hemp is one of the more durable materials on the market and is therefore why it's used in clothing, rope, and boat sails. Similar to organic cotton, it it doesn't require large amounts of water to grow, and it's able to return between 60-70% of the nutrients to the soil it's grown in.
So long as hemp is manufactured organically, the cultivation process requires no chemicals and as long as manufacturers don't implement a more chemical-intensive process to speed up production, organic hemp is a healthy and sustainable option.
Organic Linen Fabric: Is Organic Linen Sustainable?
Organic linen is produced with natural fibers derived from organic flax, a rainfed crop grown with no chemicals. Similar to hemp, it doesn't require much water to grow and, like the vast majority of natural fibers, it is biodegradable.
Manufacturing organic linen does produce some emissions but the general consensus is that it is much less than the majority of other synthetic fabrics like polyester.
Recycled Fabrics
- Recycled Polyester (RPET)
As it relates to all recycled fabrics, it's worth noting that upcycling or repurposing already existing material into something useful is beneficial to the environment for a number of reasons. It reduces waste, frees up landfill space, and takes materials that have already been manufactured and makes something useful from them. In many cases, less resources are also used.
There is no silver bullet when it comes to moving towards a more sustainable activewear ecosystem, so it's commendable that many companies are repurposing fabrics that would otherwise end up in a landfill.
However, it's also worth considering the chemicals involved in the process of recycling each of these materials and taking inventory of any harmful toxins that may end up in the finished product and on your body.
Recycled Cotton: Is Recycled Cotton Sustainable?
Recycled cotton is upcycled or repurposed cotton that would have been otherwise destined for a landfill and is instead used to make clothing.
When manufacturing clothing, extra pieces of fabric are often discarded, and this comprises the majority of the cotton used to make recycled cotton. This is also called pre-consumer or post-industrial recycled cotton. Less commonly, recycled cotton is made from post-consumer cotton which is discarded textile waste from consumers, for instance, second hand clothing.
Using upcycled or recycled cotton from pre-consumer/post-industrial recycled cotton or post-consumer recycled cotton reduces greenhouse gas emissions, energy consumption, and water consumption. It also helps clear space in landfills by repurposing already existing material.
Recycled Polyester (RPET): Is Recycled Polyester Sustainable?
RPET fabric or Recycled Polyethylene Terephthalate has been growing in popularity over recent years. The reusable and sustainable fabric is comprised of either pre or post-consumer waste.
Before being recycled, PET or Polyethylene Terephthalate is more commonly known as polyester. As is the case with all recycled fabrics, repurposing already existing material has irrefutable environmental benefits.
While many sustainable brands have started using this material, the fact remains that many of the issues that plague polyester persist with RPET. This includes the release of microplastics into water supplies during washing and the presence of harmful toxins that have been linked to numerous negative health effects.
Furthermore, the process of turning already existing polyester or plastics into fibers one can make clothing from requires the use of many chemicals, but the production process does use less water than traditional polyester.
Econyl Fabric: Is Econyl Sustainable?
Econyl is made from waste materials including already existing plastic, waste fabric, and fishing nets through a closed-loop production process, which means that the manufacturing process reuses and recycles materials throughout the lifecycle of production.
The drawbacks associated with polyester and RPET, such as the release of microplastics into our water supply, remain with Econyl, but this material can be useful for items that do not need to be washed often like sneakers or backpacks.
Synthetic Fabrics
Qmonos is a fabric derived from synthetic proteins. A Japanese company called Spiber manufactures the material and partnered with North Face to produce a jacket for extreme environments back in 2015. The jacket shell is incredibly durable and resilient, and the material is also biodegradable.
It's Complicated
Bamboo: Is Bamboo Sustainable?
Bamboo is typically thought of as relatively sustainable fabric due to its high availability and yield, how little water is needed comparatively to grow it, and the fact that it's biodegradable.
However, the process for manufacturing bamboo is where things get more complicated. The majority of bamboo manufactured is actually made through a similar process as rayon, which is relatively chemical and water-intensive.
Ultimately, it comes down to whether the bamboo is natural bamboo (aka bamboo linen) which is processed in a similar way to fabric made from flax or hemp and is therefore sustainable verses conventional bamboo which uses more chemicals and water in the processing part of the manufacturing process.
Modal: Is Modal Sustainable?
Modal is a cellulose fabric made from trees and synthetic ingredients.
While there are more sustainable versions of modal such as Tencel™ Modal, manufactured by Lenzing, it's important to understand the differences between regular modal and Lenzing's Tencel™ Modal, which is more sustainable based on both chemical use and raw material sourcing.
If you stick with Tencel™ Modal or a modal produced with an accompanying FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) or PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification) certification, you will ensure that the modal was produced in a sustainable manner and contains little to none of the harmful toxins found in many textile fibers.
Wool: Is Wool Sustainable?
Wool is a textile fiber derived from the fleece of sheep, goats, rabbits, and other mammals.
Depending on how it's sourced and the practices suppliers follow, wool can be both sustainable and not so sustainable. While wool is natural, renewable, biodegradable, recyclable, and doesn't shed microplastics into your water supply, many wool products can undergo a manufacturing process that introduce harmful dyes and chemicals.
Ultimately, it comes down to where the wool is sourced from, how its farmed, and the manufacturing process. We also have to acknowledge the treatment of animals and the conditions under which sheep and other mammals are kept for the purposes of wool production as a factor in deciding the sustainability of wool.
Under the right circumstances, wool can be a sustainable and healthy fiber to make clothing from, but it depends on a number of crucial inputs. Recycled wool further reduces environmental harm thereby increasing its sustainability.
Key Takeaways
Hopefully, you now have a better understanding of the various fabrics that most of our clothes are made from and are armed with facts and data around which ones are the best for the environment and your health.
When evaluating which materials to wear, consider both their environmental and health impacts. Afterall, what good is wearing sustainable clothing if you're doing so at the risk of consuming harmful toxins into your body?
For activewear, the best sustainable fabrics are TENCEL™ Lyocell and Organic Cotton. Organic Hemp and Organic Linen are also good choices for certain apparel.
Recycled materials like RPET and Recycled Cotton are good sustainable options, but the process of recycling already existing materials often involves the use of harmful chemicals, so you have to be careful about the toxins that may be present in those materials. RPET also releases harmful microplastics the same way as polyester and nylon do.
Modal and Wool, if sourced and manufactured in a clean and responsible manner, can be great options as well. Checking to see if these and other fabrics contain certifications like FSC, Ecolabel, and OEKO-TEX Standard 100 can also be helpful.
Conclusion
At the end of the day, it's up to you and every consumer out there to vote with their dollars and support the brands that are transparent about the materials they use, where they source and manufacture their clothing, and making a concerted effort to produce the most sustainable and healthy clothing without sacrificing essentials like comfort and quality.
Silver Sea makes all of our apparel right here in the U.S.A. and we use fabrics like TENCEL™ Lyocell because they're sustainable, healthy, and contain the most important properties valued in activewear.
We spent years testing our designs on hundreds of women of varying age and body type and iterating on each prototype to arrive at the optimized fit for each one of our products. That process never ends. With each new design we roll out, we're always looking to incorporate feedback from our community to ensure that we're providing the highest value possible to our customers.
We use the most healthy and sustainable fabrics available on the market, but we also test each of our products for thousands of harmful toxins through a third party lab to ensure that you're getting the most comfortable, most sustainable, most healthy, best designed, and highest quality apparel in the world.
